Drain To Waste Hydroponics

Flora Flex Drain to Waste System Above

With all of the different types of hydroponics systems out there, drain to waste has to be my favorite. The main reason I like this one so much is the delivery method of the plants’ nutrients. In the other hydro systems (Deep Water Culture, Ebb and Flow, Nutrient Film Technique, and Aeroponics) the nutrients are in a reservoir and are cycled through the system. Deep water culture or DWC uses a bucket, water, air stone and nutrients, and the plants’ roots grow into the bucket and consume the nutrients it wants.

The same goes with the other systems. Roots are emerged or constantly being sprayed while taking up what nutrients are in its reservoir. The only problem with this method is that there are only so many nutrients in that reservoir. So as your plants eat, they are taking up the nutrients that are available.

Most gardeners will change their reservoir out weekly, but let’s say you only change it every two weeks. Your plants could have eaten up all of a specific macro or micro nutrient, and you will start to get nutrient deficiencies. With a drain to waste system, these nutrient deficiencies never happen.

So what consists of a drain to waste system and why is there never a nutrient deficiency? A drain to waste system has a reservoir to keep your nutrients in, a submersible pump, a type of square or round mesh pot that has good drainage, soilless media, a flood tray, and a waste bucket. The way this system works is you fill your reservoir with water and adjust the PPM and pH to how you desire, connect your drip lines to your containers, set your water pump to come on 3-6 times a day depending on water/nutrient uptake, set up your flood tray to drain into your waste bucket, and you’re ready to grow.

The reason this system will never have a nutrient deficiency is because your reservoir will stay at the exact Ph and PPM that you set it at, and your plants receive those exact same nutrients every single time. You no longer have to worry if your plants are taking up more macro or micro nutrients because this will stay consistent.

I’ve been lucky enough to get to play with the Flora Flex line. This company makes different sizes of square and round pots, but what makes them so different is their lids that fit each size container. These lids have several perforated holes on top which allow an even flow over your media, unlike the drip lines which only flow in one space. They also have this manifold which allows you to run up to 8 plants off each one and can also be run in a larger growhouse and be connected by ¾ inch pvc up to 1 inch. They also have quick disconnects that allow you to take apart the manifold without interfering with your growing equipment.

If you are looking to grow hydroponically, I’d seriously consider using the Drain to Waste method for consistency of results and strong, productive plants. We are happy to talk with you about how to construct a drain to waste system or to troubleshoot with you about any issues you may have with your indoor growing projects!

Here For the Beer - Aging Beers

Aging large gravity beers can really help bring out some greater characteristics in several different styles. Larger stouts, porters, Scottish ales, and barrel-aged ales work the best for aging or cellaring. IPA and Double IPAs are net recommended for aging because the hops will start to break down over time and give an off flavor to your ales. Be sure the ABV is at least 8% or higher for the optimal aging process.

Lambics, saisons, gueuzes, and any other type of beer that uses organisms other than yeasts to produce flavors will also cellar well. Wild yeast strains such as Brettanomyces can stay active in the bottle for years, slowly changing the profile of the beer. Beers stored this way can go from a heady, hoppy beer and convert to more of a spicy, earthy beer.

The ideal aging environment is around 45F – 65F. It’s better to keep them cool but not frozen. Keep all of your bottles in a light tight or dark place. UV light is your enemy when it comes to cellaring because the UV will penetrate the bottle and create what is called light stricken ( or skunk) flavor. Try to avoid agitating the bottles to help avoid any kind of oxidation (taste like a copper penny).

I typically stick the beers I want to age in a cabinet and try to forget about them. I still have beers aging from over 5 years ago, and every time I open them they taste even better. So whether you are buying your favorite Russian Imperial stouts or home brewing your favorite ale, it never hurts to put some of them aside and enjoy those aged ales for years to come!

Beers from 2016 and 2018 aging in my cabinet

Salud!

Fine Like Strawberry Wine

With Spring here and Summer in site, strawberries are being harvested. What better thing to do with that sweet berry than to make some wine out of it. Strawberries not only have great antioxidant value to them, but they are full of macro, micro nutrients, and some vitamins as well. So while you’re enjoying that sweet wine, you are also filling yourself with some good nutrients as well. On top of all this goodness, they also contain an enzyme called amylase, which is key during the fermentation process. Amylase enzyme works to break down the starches in glucose to turn them into a fermentable beverage.

To make this delicious beverage, one must start with a good amount of berries. I like to use one pound of strawberries per gallon of wine I’m making. I’ve used less before, but if you want a dominant strawberry flavor, you need more strawberries. If you can make friends with a local farmer, they will probably sell you their seconds for a fair price. Seconds are the berries farmers typically won’t sell to the big stores because they are either bruised or over ripe. These berries work the best in my opinion because they are a lot easier to mash. It also never hurts to let your friendly farmer know what you’re making and offer up a bottle.

The next step is choosing the sugar that you would like to add to increase your alcohol content. Depending on the availability, I like to use local honey at the rate of one pound per gallon. Honey creates a more palatable wine than using cane sugar, but cane sugar will still do the trick. After we decide on the sugar, the next step is assembly. I like to blend my strawberries in a blender, add enough water to make a gallon of wine, and bring this mixture to around 170F. At this temperature it will kill off any kind of wild yeast or potential bacteria that could be present. Once you have reached this temperature, add one pound of sugar of your choice, and cool down to below 80F. After reaching below 80F pitch your yeast. I like to use Champagne yeast because it is a more neutral flavor, versus using a beer or wine yeast.

Fermentation will now take place over the next 2-3 weeks. I always like to give my wine this amount of time just to make sure the fermentation process is complete. The last thing anyone wants are exploding bottles. After this 2-3 week ferment, I like to do a secondary fermentation just to help clear my wine up. Don’t get me wrong, you can still drink your wine after 2-3 weeks, but if you like that crystal clear wine, it will take another 2-3 weeks to get all of that sediment to fall out and clear up. After the second fermentation it’s time to bottle that sweet drink. Always sanitize your bottles properly to avoid any kind of bacteria growth or any off flavors in your wine.

And finally enjoy it!